Marrakech's great square transforms as the sun sets: storytellers, musicians and smoke rising from a hundred food stalls. Watch it all unfold from a rooftop café, then dive in for grilled skewers and snail soup if you're feeling brave.

Ride into the dunes of Erg Chebbi as they glow copper and rose, then settle into a luxury tented camp with real beds and lantern-lit dinners. Wake early to watch the sunrise from the top of a dune.

Fes el-Bali is the world's largest car-free medina, with more than 9,000 winding lanes. Watch leather dyed in the Chouara Tannery's stone vats, then visit the workshops of weavers, coppersmiths and zellige tile makers whose crafts go back a millennium.

Perched over the Atlantic, with a minaret soaring more than 600 feet, this is one of the few mosques in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors. Join a guided tour beneath its carved cedar ceilings, then stroll the city's Art Deco boulevards and finish with dinner at Rick's Café.

Head into the High Atlas for a walk through walnut groves and terraced fields, then share a tagine and fresh bread in a family home. The views of snow-capped peaks come free with dessert.

Step through an unmarked door off a busy alley into a hidden courtyard of orange trees, tiled fountains and rooftop terraces. A riad stay is Morocco at its most enchanting.

Steam, black olive soap and a vigorous scrub with a kessa glove: the hammam is a weekly ritual for Moroccans and a revelation for visitors. You will leave feeling brand new.

Tucked into the Rif Mountains, this village is washed in every shade of blue. Wander with a camera in the early morning, before the day-trippers arrive.

Cross the Atlas by the Tizi n'Tichka pass to this earthen fortified village, a UNESCO site and a familiar backdrop from countless films. Continue through the Dades Valley and Todra Gorge on the way to the desert.

Shop the souk with a local cook for spices, preserved lemons and olives, then learn to build a tagine and a proper pot of mint tea. You'll carry the recipes home for years.

Yves Saint Laurent's cobalt-blue garden is a cool, green escape from the medina. Pair it with the YSL Museum next door and the Berber Museum tucked inside the garden.

This whitewashed port on the Atlantic is breezy, artsy and laid-back. Watch the blue fishing boats come in, eat grilled sardines on the harbor and browse thuya wood workshops.

Walk among Roman mosaics and columns at Volubilis, the best-preserved Roman ruins in North Africa. Then visit the grand gates of Meknes, one of Morocco's four imperial cities.